North Carolina

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This afternoon, our neighbor Nicole sat outside on her porch in the sun. I saw her from here, my office window, down there reading. She is one of the nicest people you’d ever meet, walking around in her bathrobe in the morning and sometimes wearing a Stetson and a big yellow coat in the afternoons. She plants tons of flowers in her yard. By tons, I mean tons: Hostas and begonias and impatiens and about 20 hanging baskets of plants on her porch. She’s always working on her yard, though she rents the place. She’s French Canadian. Last night, she yelled across the street to tell Pat that she was calling her friends in Hawaii and was looking for her cats. She likes to take Sammy for walks. Nicole is mysterious; she has an accent.

The neighbors next to her haven’t said anything to either Pat or me. We haven’t talked to them, either, but we see them every once in a while. They have about eight cars — Jeeps and Broncos and the sort — in their driveway most of the time. On the weekends, they’ll throw open their front door and if you look, sometimes you can see out the back of their house to the woods and the ravine behind them. They keep their yard immaculate. The grass is cut every weekend. The porch is swept. They wave and smile when they pass me and Sammy on the road as we take our walks, up past the neighbors who throw all kinds of trash out in their yard, things like old shoes and broken mirrors and, today, two TVs, facing each other on the grass. These neighbors speak Spanish; Pat and I don’t. Sometimes a wave and a smile are the best things to say, anyway.

In the ravine, up the way some, there’s a guy who drives a tractor trailer for a living who lives in his van in the woods. He’s got piles of wood stacked up on his land, which he keeps clean as a well-kept city park, except for all the broken-down vans and a shed or two. Every once in a while, the rig is parked down there — minus the trailer, of course. I’ve never seen him, but I’ve heard about him from our neighbor, Ginger, who is like the Neighborhood Ambassador.

I work with Ginger, who hosts semi-regular women-only poker games at her house. She has two dogs. One is as old as the hills and can’t see or hear anymore. She has a patch of herbs next to her house and knows everyone. She asks me all the time if anyone is giving us any trouble or if we heard some fight across the street, in the duplex where some guy who just got out of prison comes in the middle of the night and yells at the woman who lives there with a couple of kids. Pat and I don’t hear them. Ginger’s bedroom faces their house, so she does.

Down the street lives a couple we went to Warren Wilson with. They have two kids. Baby Sam loves Pat’s truck, always wants to crawl around in it and push the buttons as he grins. His sister sometimes runs around like crazy and shouts and laughs. Sometimes she won’t say anything.

It’s been, oh, about a year since I was so excited about a story that I could.not.wait to write it. Please don’t let lightening strike, but it just happened. That ho-hum feeling just shrugged off. Just now, after I finished a 75-minute interview with Jonathan Trotter, aka Jon Palido, a 22 year old reggaeton artist from… Tobaccoville.

 

He accidentally fell into music, he said. He was going on a medical and community mission trip to Ecuador a couple of years ago, mainly to translate, but he wanted to add something to the group, so he produced a CD, made 1,000 copies and handed them out to people he met in streets and in shops. He gave all of them away, and he ended up staying for three weeks and performing, once, for at least 3,000 people. Now, he’s working on his third album while waiting tables in Raleigh at night. I’m amazed, really, by how there are some people in the world that can move in and out of their native culture so easily, as if that is what they were born to do. Maybe Jonathan is like that. He was born a white boy in rural North Carolina and then go on to be a popular Spanish-speaking hip hop star in Ecuador, Nicaragua, and (soon) Puerto Rico. Amazing.

The day is sweltering hot, which is atypical despite the fact the town I’m in is called Hot Springs. It’s 2 p.m., my car themometer reads 99 degrees and the street is empty except for a few motorcyclists chugging through town. Almost all of the stores are closed.

I have a little bit of time to kill before meeting a friend, so I drive down the main street, looking around. Ahead of me, I spot a lot of white hair and T-shirts. I keep driving, getting closer. What’s going on? A parade? An accident? One by one, about six faces turn toward me, our eyes catching. I drive by, looking at the group of about six men sitting on a stone wall. They’re in the shade of some large trees and overgrown hedges. What’s going on? I’m what’s going on. Me, in my car, driving down the street. They smile. I smile. We all wave.

Oh, to live in a town where the excitement at 2 p.m. is watching traffic.

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